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125x125 automotive sale

2002 Ford Explorer

How to perform an Oil Change

Estimated time to complete: 30 minutes

The following article describes the necessary tools, equipment and process to perform an oil change on a Ford Explorer. Note: If you don't have the filter socket wrench don't bother trying this. A traditional oil filter wrench will not work.

Items Needed Tools Required
Mobil 1 M1-210 Oil Filter
STP SA9332 Air Filter
5 Quarts of oil
Fuel Injector Cleaner
5/8" Socket or spanner
World's Best Universal Oil Filter Wrench
Multiple Socket Extensions
Oil Drain Pan
Shop Towels
Nitrile Gloves
Oil Funnel

Step 1: Raise the hood and take a good look at the engine to ensure that everything appears as it should.
Step 2: Stashed low on the driver's side of the block is the oil dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it off with a shop towel. Now reinsert it, and remove it once again. It should read the current level of the oil and show you what the oil looks like.

Step 3: As you get ready to work under the car, always take a look at the undercarriage. You are looking for wet or slick looking areas that would indicate an oil leak.
Step 4: Locate the oil drain plug. It's located underneath the motor towards the passenger front wheel. This drain plug is a 5/8" bolt. Position the oil drain pan under the oil drain plug. Loosen the plug with the 14mm socket or wrench until you can turn it by hand. Apply upward pressure while continuing to loosen by hand. Finally, pull the plug away so that the car may drain.
Step 5: While you have the drain plug out wipe it off well and check the threads on the plug. You want to make sure that the plug's threads are clean and undamaged and that the head of the bolt is not rounded off. If either is true you should replace the drain plug.
Step 6: Wait until the oil has completely drained. Then wipe a little fresh oil on the washer of the drain plug. Use a shop towel to wipe off the area where the drain plug goes as well as the threads into which it will go. Reinsert and tighten the drain plug. Tighten it by hand as far as possible and then finish up with the wrench. It doesn't take a lot of strength to get it good and tight, so don't over tighten it!.
Step 7: Here is the old oil filter. Place the oil filter socket wrench over the oil filter. Pull the drain pan over so that it's under the oil filter. Since the oil filter is a good way up, use the socket extention to connect the socket wrench. Use the socket wrench to loosen the filter. Remove the rest of the way by hand.
Step 8: You'll need to wipe off all the spilled oil using shop towels. Make sure you clean the threads for the spin on oil filter well.

Step 9: Take the new oil filter and apply some clean oil to the rubber seal and the threads. This will help it seal correctly. Spin the oil filter on and hand tighten. Use the socket set to tighten an additional half turn.
Step 10: Here to can see the new oil filter installed. We're ready to start putting oil in the car, but first you want to double check the work you've don't so far. Make sure the drain plug is in place, the oil filter is in place, the dipstick has been put back. If you've successfully performed all the steps, then you're ready.
Step 11: Before we go ahead with the oil, let's check the air filter. There are two metal compression springs that hold down the air filter cover on the drivers side. Unsnap both.
Step 12: I always like to compare the old air filter against the new one. As you can readily see the air filter in this car was particularly dirty. We have a lot of dust in the air here, so air filters get dirty quickly. Put the new air filter in place, replace the air filter cover and reattach the snaps.

Step 13: Now it's finally time to put the oil in! Finish adding the oil to a grand total of 5 quarts.
Step 14: Finally, check and clean the threads of the oil fill cap and it's mating on the top of the block. Now, go ahead and put the cap back into the block.
Step 15: It's a good idea to periodically run some uel injector cleaner through the car. It helps to ensure that the injectors are pumping the correct amount of gasoline. It also lubricates any of the moving parts in the assembly. You put it into the gas tank. You always want to put it in with a full tank of gas. So either fill the tank before the oil change, or as I prefer, fill the tank afterwards, and put the fuel injector cleaner in the tank just beore adding the gasoline. The latter will ensure that the cleaner mixes most effectively with the gasoline.

You're done! double check your work, take the car for a test drive, and then check for any leaks.

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Page Comments

Name: Sam S Page Rating: 1 Date:3/21/2010 1:41:47 PM
Exactly what I needed.. Photos helped immensely, other sites just gave words so I wanted to ensure I removed correct plug like Kurt B. thanks again.
Name: Serg Page Rating: 1 Date:12/3/2009 9:12:29 AM
EXACTLY!
ITS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!
Name: Kurt B Page Rating: 10 Date:11/25/2009 8:18:27 AM
EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR
I always took the easy way out and let a shop change my oil. "These economic times" inspired me to do-it-myself. I did a Google search and was looking for a picture of the oil drain plug for my 4.0L SOHC 2002 Ford Ranger. I knew the process was simple, but didn't want to accidentaly drain the wrong fluid... like my transmission fluid! This tutorial had the EXACT picture I was looking for. It showed the plug and where it was in relation to the filter in the same photo. The tip on the oil filter wrench was also helpful. Thanks!
Name: CJ Spencer Page Rating: 1 Date:5/4/2009 9:10:25 AM
Is there?
Is my 1992 ford explorer XLT, 6 cyl 4.0 L fuel injected?

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