The fuel system restoration on this particular car has been an interesting foray. Much like the other areas where I just didn't have the parts, but also because I added a couple custom components. I also bent/fabricated all the fuel lines. The lines were easy to do because there was no flaring involved. to learn about bending lines read my article: Fuel & Brake Line Fabrication

Here you can see the first fuel line set in place. This is the final line that the gasoline traverses in the trunk area as it passes through out of the rear of the vehicle. You'll also note that I fully dynamatted the interior of the trunk. It helps to cut down on noise towards the rear of the vehicle.

Next you need to mount the fuel pump. I've opted to go with a more modern facet unit. Now, there was no original bolt hole that I could find on the car, so I drilled new ones. In hindsight I would mount the pump a bit higher up above the carpet. In the pump kit there was also the fitting and inline filter for either side of the pump. These connect in to the fuel lines and are held on with a clamp. If you get one of the modern kits you'll either have to modify the original connectors on the wiring harness or (preferably) get the correct connectors to use on the fuel pump and solder them on to the wiring.

Here you see the Piece de resistance which is the new aluminum fuel tank. It's made by a fellow named Jorge out in California. It weights almost nothing.

There's been a bunch of discussion about issues with these tanks. The only major issue I could find is that the two upper connectors were welded on the wrong side of the pressure relieve valve hole.

Here's a "new used" pressure relief valve that I acquired from Delta along with the appropriate gaskets.

Intall the fuel sender into the tank with the correct gaskets. Press in and rotate the sender retaining ring.

Attach the pressure relief line (standard 5/16" fuel line) to the pressure relieve valve. You need enough line to span across the tank, down the side and out the bottom of the vehicle.

Attach the fuel fill rubber line. Make sure to have the clamps for both ends in place.

This, seemingly simple, rubber piece is a specialty connector from the fuel tank to the return line from the charcoal canniter that resides up in the engine compartment. You can probably bodge your own, but Delta still has this piece.

Now, here's a "critical" part of that return line system. It's a machine inset into the return line that restricts the passage to exactly .046". These are no longer available from what I can tell (though, I didn't check with Martin-Robey as I found this one on a spare gas tank). If you can't locate one you would need to plug end end of the line with some sort of metal, and drill through it to make a .046" hole.

Here you can see the reducer installed into the 3/16" metal return line.

The return line assembly is completely put together. I've not found a source for the little plastic clips that hold the return line in place, I used twist ties as an altrnative.

Inside the trunk the return line terminates with some 3/1" rubber tubing which will eventually connect to more hard line that comes up through the floor of the tank.

Here's the rubber ring installed into the body. Whatever you do, don't install it first like I did. I couldn't get the fuel tank in because I'd put it in already. Wait until the tank is in then install it. I left this here as a cautionary note.

This fuel line is part of the "anti-siphon assembly". We've had some discussions around the shop as how this is really supposed to work, as it looks pretty wonky as is (logically speaking). But, that's the way the parts catalog shows it.

With all the parts attached you can now set the tank in to place. Now, originally the car had a mat underneath the fuel tank. I found that with the Dynamat installed it wasn't necessary (which is great, because it's a useless piece). Now, with all the bits attached to the tank it takes some wiggling to get it in to place correctly.

Once the tank is in place, it's time to deal with all the hoses. The first one is the pressure relief valve line. This rubber hose is fitted (with a rubber grommet) through the floor of the tank and then out the bottom.

Here you can see the line out the bottom of the car. The hole on the bottom and the hole in the trunk are slightly offset. It's easier to pull the line through is you use some needlenose pliers.

Connect the outgoing fuel line from the fuel pump, the line that supplies the carburettor, and the anti-siphon line via a brass fuel T as shown. I'm still trying to figure out if there's a special anti-siphon valve or if it's really just a fuel T.

Here we're showing the rubber fuel line connection to the carburettor supply line. You can also see the rubber line connected to the fuel sender. It goes from there to a fuel filter and then into the fuel pump.

Once all the lines are connected, the fuel pump was connected it's time to install the fuel filler cap and rubber ring. Now I mentioned the rubber ring earlier. It's a trick to get it in, so take your time and don't get too frustrated. Once the rubber ring is in you can set the fuel filler cap assemly in place and tighten the clamp on the rubber fuel line.

Now you're done replacing the fuel system (at least in the tank area!)

| More

Page Comments

There are no comments on this yet. Would you like to add one?

Add A Comment

Your Name: Rate this page:(10 = excellent, 1 = crap)
Your Email Address: We will not display or share your email address
Comment Title:
Comment:

Note, anything that isn't a comment (e.g. advertising) will be immediately deleted.

All references to They Might Be Giants are fan references only. John & John I hope you don't mind! And if you're ever in Phoenix stop by for a visit!